THE NORTH FACE Used Clothing Procurement Guide | RE-USE TOKYO
THE NORTH FACE Used Clothing Sourcing Guide
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History of THE NORTH FACE
Over half a century since its founding in 1966, to the pinnacle of outdoor gear
THE NORTH FACE was founded in San Francisco in 1966 by Douglas Tompkins and Kenneth "Hap" Klopp. The brand name is derived from "the north face" of a mountain, its most unforgiving side, representing their commitment to tackling the most challenging environments.
Brand History
- 1966 Founded in San Francisco
- 1968 Started manufacturing their own products
- 1970s Down products and geodesic dome tents
- 1980s GORE-TEX adoption, Mountain Jacket born
- 1992 Nuptse Jacket released
- Late 1990s Became street culture icon
- 2000 Acquired by VF Corporation
- 2010s Collaborations with Supreme, etc.
- 2020s FUTURELIGHT, sustainability
Clues for Dating
- 〜2000s: HyVent material was mainstream (primarily used from early 2000s to early 2010s) - older tags
- 2010s: DryVent began to gradually transition from early 2010s (became widely adopted around 2014). The market is now mostly DryVent. HyVent remains only in very limited cases for old products, budget lines, outlets, and kids' items.
- 2020s: FUTURELIGHT, recycled material notation, QR codes
- Even for the same model name, silhouettes can differ completely by era
- Identify era by tag font, material notation, and manufacturing year
- ※The exact boundary of eras is not definitive. Judge by range (early/mid/late).
- ※HyVent/DryVent are supplementary elements for dating and cannot be solely relied upon. They can coexist within the same era depending on the model and purpose (kids'/budget lines).
Complete Jacket Encyclopedia
Click for details
Mountain Jacket
▼Top-tier shell. Large color-block shoulder, thick GORE-TEX, longer length. Zip-in-zip compatible.
Identification Points
- Large color-block on shoulder to arm
- Stiff fabric (crinkly)
- Zip-in-zip connection inside
- Hem covers up to the buttocks
Mountain Light Jacket
▼Lighter version of the Mountain Jacket. Same shoulder block, but thinner, lighter, and shorter. Extremely popular in Japan.
Identification Points
- Thinner and lighter fabric than Mountain Jacket
- Length is around the hip bone
- Slanted handwarmer pockets
Nuptse Jacket
▼Most popular down jacket. Puffy silhouette with horizontal baffles. Short length. High collar.
Identification Points
- Horizontal baffles (puffy horizontal divisions)
- Bulky appearance, short length
- Collar covers up to the chin
Baltro Light Jacket
▼Higher-end than Nuptse. Shoulder block + down + hood. Difficult to find. Kōdenshi is a Goldwin proprietary material, only used in some Japan-exclusive models of certain years.
Identification Points
- Shoulder block + puffy down + hood
- ⚠️ Different silhouettes before/after 2015
- ⚠️ Kōdenshi = mainly Japan-exclusive (Korea also has high-performance synthetic insulation)
Denali Jacket
▼Fleece + nylon shoulder block. Small horizontal zip pocket on chest.
Identification Points
- Body = fleece, shoulders = nylon
- Small horizontal zip pocket on chest
Compact JK / Venture / Antora / Resolve
▼Compact = flimsy water-repellent. Venture/Antora = DryVent waterproof. Resolve = cheapest. Very common in used clothing.
Identification Points
- Compact: Flimsy, packable
- Venture: Thin rain jacket, zippered pockets
- Resolve: Velcro cuffs = cheapest
Himalayan / McMurdo Parka
▼Himalayan = strongest down. McMurdo = knee-length with fur.
Identification Points
- Himalayan: Huge baffles + ultimate volume
- McMurdo: Knee-length + fur + military style
ThermoBall / Apex / Triclimate / Glacier / Coach JK
▼ThermoBall = round baffle insulation. Apex = stretch softshell. Triclimate = 3-in-1 detachable. Glacier = thin fleece. Coach JK = snap buttons + back logo.
Identification Points
- ThermoBall: Round baffles + "ThermoBall" tag
- Apex: Flexible stretch + no GORE-TEX
- Triclimate: Inner connecting zipper line
- Glacier: All fleece (no shoulder block)
- Coach: Snap buttons + back logo
Summit / FUTURELIGHT / Flight / PURPLE LABEL / Kids
▼Summit: "SUMMIT SERIES" logo (multiple placements such as left sleeve, chest, hem). A general term for high-performance alpine product groups designed for the most extreme environments within THE NORTH FACE. Tends to be high-priced, but individual items vary greatly.
FUTURELIGHT: VF Corporation's proprietary nano-spinning waterproof membrane (announced 2019, 2020~). Differs from GORE-TEX (external company W.L. Gore) in development and technology, coexisting for different uses and grades (not a complete replacement). See Technology section for details.
Flight: Running ultra-lightweight. With thumbholes.
PURPLE LABEL: Purple logo. nanamica. Selling cheaply would be a loss.
Kids: Cheaper to source, high resale rate. Be careful not to confuse 160 with XS.
Identification Points
- Summit: "SUMMIT SERIES" logo (often on left sleeve, but also on chest, hem, etc.)
- FL: Tag "FUTURELIGHT"
- Flight: Thumbholes + stretch
- PURPLE: Purple logo + nanamica notation
- Kids: Tag "Kids/Youth" + size 100-160
Jacket Comparison Chart
Differences between models at a glance
| Model | Material | Waterproof | Insulation | Price Range | Frequency |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mountain JK | GORE-TEX | ★★★★★ | ★★ | ¥25,000〜50,000 | Medium |
| Mountain Light | GORE-TEX | ★★★★★ | ★★ | ¥20,000〜40,000 | Medium |
| Nuptse/1996 | 700FP Down | ★★ | ★★★★★ | ¥15,000〜35,000 | High |
| Baltro | Down (Kōdenshi in some Japan versions) | ★★★★ | ★★★★★ | ¥30,000〜60,000+ | Low |
| Denali | Polartec | ★ | ★★★ | ¥8,000〜20,000 | Medium |
| Compact/Venture/Resolve | Nylon/DryVent | ★★〜★★★★ | ★ | ¥3,000〜12,000 | Very High |
| Himalayan/McMurdo | 800FP Down | ★★★ | ★★★★★ | ¥25,000〜50,000+ | Low |
| Summit/FL/Flight | FUTURELIGHT | ★★★★★ | ★★ | ¥20,000〜50,000 | Low (High-priced) |
| PURPLE LABEL | High-quality Nylon | ★★★ | ★★ | ¥15,000〜50,000+ | Low (High-priced) |
Even beginners can do it! Tips for identification
Distinguish with 6 points
❶ Feel the material
▼- ▸ Stiff nylon → Shell type
- ▸ Flimsy → Compact JK
- ▸ Puffy → Down type
- ▸ Soft brushed → Fleece
- ▸ Stretch → Apex/Flight
❷ Shoulder block
▼- ▸ Large color-block shoulder → Mountain/Baltro
- ▸ Nylon shoulder + fleece body → Denali
- ▸ No block → Nuptse/Scoop/Venture
❸ Length and thickness
▼- ▸ Long length + stiff → Mountain JK
- ▸ Short length + puffy → Nuptse
- ▸ Knee length + fur → McMurdo
- ▸ Flimsy + light → Compact/Venture
❹ Model identification by product number (※Not guaranteed to be exact)
▼- ▸ NP61800 → Mountain JK (representative product number. Improvements may vary by year even with the same number)
- ▸ ND92234 → Nuptse (representative product number. Changes may occur by year even with the same number)
- ▸ ND92240 → Baltro (representative product number. Significant changes may occur by year even with the same number)
- ▸ NF0A3C8D → 1996 Retro Nuptse (representative example. Specifications vary by country and revival)
- ▸ ※Model name can be identified by product number, but identical number does not mean identical specifications.
- ▸ ※Product numbers are supplementary information indicating trends of the design line. They cannot determine country or exact year.
❺ Hood shape
▼- ▸ Detachable → Mountain JK type
- ▸ Integrated with down fill → Baltro
- ▸ With fur → McMurdo
- ▸ No hood → Nuptse/Denali
❻ Pocket Shape
▼- ▸ Square with flap → Scoop
- ▸ Diagonal zipper → Mountain Light
- ▸ Horizontal zippered chest pocket → Denali
- ▸ All snap buttons → Coach JK
＋ Advanced Professional Checks
▼- ▸ Manufacturing tag position: Back of neck / Inside pocket / Side seam (varies by model)
- ▸ Zipper engraving: YKK / VISLON (for authenticity check)
- ▸ Lining structure: Mesh (Rain JK) / Quilted (Down) / Plain (Softshell)
- ▸ Taped seams: More = often high-end models (Summit, etc.)
⚠️ Notes on Procurement Operations
Not determined by product number alone — Pitfalls pros should know
Not determined by product number alone
▼- ▸ NP/ND → Often Japanese design (Goldwin), but not definitive
- ▸ NJ/NF → Tends to be Korean or Asian distribution, but US, EU, parallel imports, and genuine Japanese products also mixed. Cannot be definitively categorized as "Korean design."
- ▸ The same NP can be Korean distribution, and the same NJ can be genuine Japanese.
- ▸ Some items cannot be authenticated by hologram alone.
- 👉 Product numbers are effective for model identification but cannot be used to determine country or place of manufacture. Even with the same product number, specifications may differ by country and year. Country and year should be judged comprehensively using tag language, size notation, and distributor as supplementary information.
Country-specific differences in 1996 Nuptse
▼- ▸ There are general differences between US/Korean/Japanese versions, but only at a secondary factor level.
- ▸ The impact of year differences (reissue lot differences) is overwhelmingly greater.
- ▸ Different silhouettes commonly exist even within the same country.
- 👉 Year differences are more dominant than country differences. Actual size confirmation is essential.
Baltro differences by era
▼- ▸ The silhouette is completely different before and after 2015.
- ▸ KODENSHI down is mainly used in some models of Japanese design (not all Baltro models use KODENSHI).
- ▸ Korean and US versions use global standard insulation or down such as HEATSEEKER, not KODENSHI (HEATSEEKER is an insulation technology used by TNF in all regions and is not specific to Korea).
- ▸ Some Korean and reissue versions do not have shoulder switching.
- 👉 Identify Japanese versions by tag year + presence/absence of KODENSHI logo.
Caution points for Summit Series
▼- ▸ Frequent cases of mistakenly buying at low prices due to confusion with regular mountain jackets.
- ▸ Do not overlook the "SUMMIT SERIES" logo (multiple placements such as left sleeve, chest, hem).
- ▸ Tends to be high-priced, but fluctuates greatly with year, condition, and popular colors.
- ▸ Expedition models can be heavy (lightweight does not necessarily mean high-end).
- 👉 Distinguish by SUMMIT logo + amount of taped seams. Price varies by individual item.
Overlooking PURPLE LABEL
▼- ▸ Slim, minimalist silhouette makes it appear as "plain North Face."
- ▸ Selling at a low price, thinking it's a regular line, leads to significant loss.
- ▸ Always check for the purple logo tag + nanamica表記.
- 👉 PURPLE LABEL retails for 30,000-70,000 yen, and maintains high prices even as used clothing.
Women's/Asia-exclusive models
▼- ▸ Even with the same model name, men's and women's are treated as different products.
- ▸ "Short Nuptse" (W's Nuptse Short) is particularly common in Korea.
- ▸ Asia-exclusive products such as Mountain Down Coat (long for women).
- 👉 Check the end of the product number or the gender notation on the tag to prevent confusion.
Korean North Face (WHITE LABEL)
Korea-exclusive line not available in Japan
What is Korean North Face?
The North Face in Korea is operated by Youngone Outdoor as a regional licensee. Since 2011, they have developed the WHITE LABEL, a collection exclusive to Korea. In Japan, Goldwin similarly plans and operates as a regional licensee. In both cases, THE NORTH FACE brand, under VF Corporation, is independently operated by local licensees.
In Korea, it's a "national brand" popular especially among young generations. WHITE LABEL features designs geared towards city wear and everyday fashion. RED LABEL (serious outdoor wear) is also available in Korea, positioning WHITE LABEL as a "fashion-oriented spin-off line."
⚠️ Common misconceptions: "NJ product number = definitely Korean" is incorrect / "WHITE LABEL = all cheap" is also incorrect (popular models and limited colors can be more expensive than in Japan).
⚠️ 3 patterns of misunderstanding Korean WHITE LABEL:
① Japanese-designed product numbers (NP/ND) can also be distributed in Korea.
② WHITE LABEL products can also be distributed as genuine Japanese imports.
③ Even with the same model name, the Korean version is not necessarily a completely different design (year differences can be more significant).
History of Korean North Face
History
- 1974 Youngone established
- 1997 TNF sales begin in Korea
- 2003 Becomes #1 brand in Korean outdoor market sales
- 2011 WHITE LABEL launched
- 2018 PyeongChang Olympics partner
- 2025 Some parallel distribution expands in Japan
- Youngone's license agreement continues until 2032 (TNF's presence in Korea will continue for the foreseeable future)
Sourcing Points
- Not available in Japan → high rarity
- Korea-exclusive colors → high resale demand
- Size 95 ≈ Japan S~M
- Korean designs prioritize fashion, leading to greater silhouette differences than in Japan.
- Many women's items, such as SHORT length Nuptse.
Differences in labels by country
🔴 Regular Line (Outdoor)
- Red logo, serious outdoor
⚪ WHITE LABEL (Korea Exclusive)
- White/black logo, urban wear focus (some outdoor-oriented lines exist)
🟣 PURPLE LABEL (Japan Exclusive)
- Purple logo, nanamica, slim & elegant
Quick Comparison: Korean vs Japanese North Face
| Item | Japanese Version (Goldwin) | Korean Version (WHITE LABEL) |
|---|---|---|
| Distributor | Goldwin Inc. | Youngone Outdoor Inc. |
| Logo Color | Red / Purple (Purple Label) | White or Black |
| Product Number System | NP / ND / NA + 5 digits | NJ / NC / NF + alphanumeric |
| Design Tendency | Performance-focused / Clean | Trend-focused / Fashionable |
| Size Notation | S / M / L / XL | 90 / 95 / 100 / 105 |
| Tag Notation | Japanese | Hangul (Korean) |
| Price Range | Slightly higher | Standard items tend to be cheaper, but popular models and limited colors can be more expensive than in Japan. |
Material and Technology Explanation
Key North Face Technologies
Waterproof and Breathable Materials
▼- ▸ GORE-TEX: External licensed material, highest waterproof and breathable (mountain series)
- ▸ DryVent: North Face's proprietary waterproof (Scoop/Venture)
- ▸ HyVent: Old waterproof material (primarily early 2000s to early 2010s). The market standard has shifted to DryVent, and most HyVent items are old products, budget lines, or outlet stock.
- ▸ FUTURELIGHT: VF Corporation (North Face parent company) independently developed nanospinning waterproof membrane (announced 2019, from 2020). Designed with an emphasis on breathability. Differs from GORE-TEX (W.L. Gore company's ePTFE membrane, emphasizes durable waterproofing) in both developer and technical system. Although treated as a competitor in the market, it actually coexists with GORE-TEX due to differences in application and grade, and is not a complete substitute. Positioned as VF Corporation's own developed waterproof and breathable material that competes with GORE-TEX.
Insulation / Mid-layer Materials
▼- ▸ 700FP Down: High quality (Nuptse)
- ▸ KODENSHI Down: Functional material independently developed by Goldwin Inc. (not a North Face core technology). Mechanism for enhancing warmth by radiating and reusing body heat as far-infrared rays. Utilized Goldwin's position as a planner and operator of North Face in Japan, adopted only in some Japanese-designed models (certain years of Baltro, etc.). Not all Baltro models use KODENSHI. Models without KODENSHI use global standard insulation or down like HEATSEEKER (HEATSEEKER is a TNF universal insulation technology, not specific to a particular region).
- ▸ PrimaLoft: Synthetic insulation (Thermoball)
- ▸ Polartec: High-performance fleece (Denali)
Other
▼- ▸ WindWall: Windproof (softshell)
- ▸ FlashDry: Quick-drying (Flight)
- ▸ Zip-in-Zip: Connection system
- ▸ Recycled materials: 2020s~
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