LACOSTE Authentication Guide: How to Spot Fakes and Date Tags | RE-USE TOKYO

Lacoste Vintage Authentication Guide - For Wholesalers

This guide explains how to authenticate vintage and used Lacoste outerwear. It covers identifying genuine crocodile logos, tag changes by era (DEVANLAY period to current), and how to check care labels, making it a comprehensive resource for vintage clothing wholesalers. Ideal for those sourcing Korean vintage, authenticating Lacoste fakes, and understanding the differences between real and counterfeit items.

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AUTHENTICATION GUIDE

Lacoste

Lacoste Jacket & Outerwear Authentication Guide

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Authentication Basics

Authenticating Lacoste products cannot be done based on a single factor alone.
It is essential to comprehensively examine four key elements: tags, embroidery, stitching, and care labels.
Recent counterfeits have improved logo accuracy, making it risky to judge based on the logo alone.

⚠ Do not rely solely on the logo or zipper. Tags and care labels are paramount.

⚠️ Authentication Criteria Emphasized by RE-USE TOKYO

Tags (Era Consistency): Approx. 40% → Item number format, country of manufacture, material composition, font
Care Labels: Approx. 30% → Material ratio, washing instructions, accuracy of legal markings
Crocodile Logo Embroidery: Approx. 20% → Density, clarity of outline (※ Some recent fakes have high accuracy)
Stitching & Fabric Feel: Approx. 10% → Stitch uniformity, fabric thickness

※ This is an estimated guideline based on experience, and authentication factors may vary depending on the product.

Visual Comparison

Crocodile Logo: Authentic vs. Fake

✓ Authentic Crocodile Logo

  • Clear depiction of mouth, teeth, and eyes
  • Sharp embroidery outline
  • Natural rendering of foot toes
  • High embroidery density
  • Overall natural balance

✗ Fake Crocodile Logo

  • Unclear depiction of mouth, teeth, and eyes
  • Blurred outline
  • Crude rendering of foot toes
  • Low embroidery density
  • Unnatural overall balance

1970s–1980s (IZOD/Lacoste Era)

Characteristics

  • For US market: IZOD LACOSTE branding
  • For French market: Chemise Lacoste branding
  • MADE IN FRANCE
  • Crocodile logo embroidery with a natural design

Authentication Points

  • Presence of IZOD branding (varies by region)
  • Crocodile embroidery accuracy
  • Stitching quality for Made in France items
  • Natural aging of the tag

1990s–2000s (DEVANLAY Era)

Characteristics

  • DEVANLAY branding is visible during this period (manufacturing license)
  • Crocodile logo is generally composed of fine, careful embroidery
  • Establishment of product number system
  • Multi-language tags (for various countries)

Authentication Points

  • Consistency with tag specifications for the era
  • Crocodile stitch density
  • Verification of product number format
  • Accuracy of multi-language notation

2010s–Present

Characteristics

  • Integrated from DEVANLAY in 2018
  • Introduction of QR code authentication
  • Assignment of serial numbers
  • Increased collaborations

Authentication Points

  • QR code scannability check
  • Serial number format
  • Transition period to in-house manufacturing
  • Official certification for collaboration products

Authentic vs. Fake Comparison Checklist

Key points to check

✓ Common Characteristics of Authentic Items

  • Crocodile logo composed of relatively fine and careful embroidery
  • Clear depiction of mouth, teeth, and eyes
  • Uniform finishing on the reverse side of the embroidery
  • Natural expression of green embroidery
  • Tag font matches Lacoste typeface
  • Zipper operates smoothly and is well-made
  • Fabric has appropriate thickness
  • Information on care label and main tag matches

✗ Common Characteristics of Fake Items

  • Coarse and low-density embroidery
  • Unclear depiction of mouth, teeth, and eyes
  • Thread clumps on the reverse side of the embroidery
  • Unnatural green embroidery (e.g., different shade)
  • Tag font is a common Gothic typeface
  • Zipper movement is stiff or poorly made
  • Fabric is thin
  • Information on care label contradicts size or material stated on the main tag

Summary of Authentication Points

Lacoste Authentication Checklist

  • Density and clarity of crocodile logo embroidery
  • Consistency with tag specifications for the era
  • Whether the tag font is the Lacoste typeface
  • Whether information on the care label and main tag matches
  • Quality of finishing on the reverse side of the embroidery
  • Zipper operation quality and overall craftsmanship

⚠ Important Notes

Tag specifications differ between items for the Japanese market (Sankyo Seiko license) and the international market. Please authenticate after confirming the sales region.

Regarding the crocodile logo: "1400 stitches," "red eyes," and "gradation" vary by era, size, and production factory. Do not use a specific color or number of stitches as a sole criterion.

Regarding zippers: Lacoste uses zippers from multiple manufacturers, including YKK, ECLAIR, OPTI, and unbranded ones. Authentication cannot be based solely on the zipper brand.

DEVANLAY branding: While it can be a reference for era determination, do not use it as the primary basis for authentication.

Regarding items circulated in Korea: Tag specifications may differ for licensed products or parallel imports in the Korean market. Do not judge an item as fake based solely on tag specification differences.

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