LACOSTE Used Clothing Sourcing Guide｜RE-USE TOKYO
LACOSTE Vintage Sourcing Guide
History of LACOSTE
From its founding in 1933 to a symbol of French elegance
LACOSTE was founded in 1933 by tennis player René Lacoste and André Gillier. They invented the "L.12.12" polo shirt, the prototype for the polo, and were pioneers in bringing elegance to sportswear. The crocodile logo (crocodile) is derived from René Lacoste's nickname.
Brand History
- 1933 Founded by René Lacoste + André Gillier
- 1933 L.12.12 polo shirt born (prototype of the polo shirt)
- 1950s-60s Dominated European tennis and expanded into the US
- 1970s-80s Expanded licensing (Japan = Sankyo Seiko)
- 1990s Re-evaluated in French hip-hop culture
- 2000s License recall and brand unification strategy
- 2012 CHEMISE LACOSTE notation abolished, unified to "LACOSTE"
- 2020s Sustainability, collaborations (Supreme, etc.), rebranding for younger generations
Position in the Vintage Market
- French-made vintage items maintain high prices.
- Japanese-made (Sankyo Seiko, with CHEMISE LACOSTE notation) are mid-priced.
- Current products are not as highly valued as French-made items in the vintage market.
- Value can change by 5-10 times depending on the country of origin and the tag's era.
- Polo shirts have the largest distribution, but cardigans and knits are also popular.
- IZOD Lacoste (US license) has a different tag system than original Lacoste. It's best to identify by the "IZOD" notation on the tag.
- Fakes are rare, but be careful not to confuse them with licensed products.
Line and Label Explanation
Lacoste's main lines and country-specific licenses
LACOSTE (Original French Line)
▼- ▸ French-made (Made in France) items have the highest value.
- ▸ French-made items from before the 1970s are marked "CHEMISE LACOSTE".
- ▸ The quality of the piqué cotton differs (thicker, more lustrous).
- ▸ In the vintage market, these are called "Furalacoste" (French Lacoste) and trade at high prices.
- 👉 French-made items tend to be highly valued, but condition, size, and design are also important. Even French-made items in poor condition or extreme sizes won't fetch high prices.
CHEMISE LACOSTE (Japanese License - Sankyo Seiko)
▼- ▸ Sankyo Seiko licensed production in Japan (1964-2000s).
- ▸ Tags show "CHEMISE LACOSTE" + "Sankyo Seiko Co., Ltd."
- ▸ Japanese-made but high quality. Popular era in vintage clothing.
- ▸ License recalled in the 2000s, no longer exists.
- 👉 "CHEMISE LACOSTE" + Sankyo Seiko = Japanese license period. Valued next to French Lacoste.
IZOD LACOSTE (US License)
▼- ▸ US license from 1951-1993 (General Mills → Crystal Brands).
- ▸ Crocodile faces right (original faces left) = characteristic of the IZOD era.
- ▸ Market valuation differs from French-made items; generally lower in the vintage market.
- ▸ However, there is some demand among US vintage clothing enthusiasts as an 80s vintage item.
- 👉 IZOD LACOSTE has a different tag system than the original. Although there are differences in crocodile embroidery design, it's safest to identify by the "IZOD" notation on the tag.
LACOSTE LIVE / L!VE
▼- ▸ From 2011 onwards. A line for younger generations, more street and casual-oriented.
- ▸ Modern, tighter silhouettes. Colorful crocodile logo.
- ▸ Vintage market price is similar to or slightly lower than the regular line.
- 👉 L!VE = current younger generation line. Unlikely to be high-priced.
LACOSTE Sport
▼- ▸ Functional line for tennis and golf.
- ▸ Often contains polyester blends and stretch materials.
- ▸ Vintage market price is low. Focuses on functionality, less on fashion.
- 👉 Sport = functional wear. Value is completely different from French Lacoste.
Collaborations / Limited Editions (Supreme, Comme des Garçons, etc.)
▼- ▸ Collaborations with Supreme, CDG SHIRT, Golf le Fleur, etc.
- ▸ Prices can be several to 10 times higher than regular lines.
- ▸ Identify by collaboration notation on tags/logos.
- 👉 Don't miss collaboration notations. Confusing them with regular lines = loss.
Main Item Types
Frequently sourced items
Polo Shirts (L.12.12 Series)
▼- ▸ Lacoste's iconic item. Piqué cotton material.
- ▸ French-made = thicker, more lustrous, high-priced (¥8,000〜20,000).
- ▸ Japanese-made (Sankyo Seiko era) = good quality (¥3,000〜8,000).
- ▸ Peruvian/Chinese-made (current) = lower market price (¥2,000〜4,000).
- ▸ Unique sizing (2-7). 2≈XS, 3≈S, 4≈M, 5≈L, 6≈XL.
Cardigans / Knits
▼- ▸ Wool cardigans = hallmark of French Lacoste. Prices soar in autumn/winter.
- ▸ Various V-neck, crew neck, and zip-up styles.
- ▸ French-made knits = particularly high-priced (¥10,000〜30,000).
- ▸ Acrylic blends decrease in value. 100% wool is desirable.
Sweatshirts / Track Jackets
▼- ▸ Large crocodile embroidery = tends to be high-priced.
- ▸ Track jackets = popular in French hip-hop culture.
- ▸ 90s-00s baggy silhouettes are being re-evaluated.
Outerwear / Jackets
▼- ▸ Harrington jackets (swing tops) = classic and high demand.
- ▸ Down jackets = rare but with steady demand.
- ▸ Trench coats / Balmacaan coats = high-priced for French Lacoste.
Comparison Table by Country of Origin
Value varies significantly by country of origin
| Country of Origin / Line | Era | Vintage Market Price | Valuation | Identification Method |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| French-made (Original) | 〜2000s | ¥5,000〜30,000+ | Highest | "Made in France" notation |
| Japanese-made (Sankyo Seiko) | 1964〜2000s | ¥3,000〜15,000 | High | CHEMISE LACOSTE + Sankyo Seiko |
| Spanish-made | 1980s〜2000s | ¥3,000〜10,000 | Mid〜High | "Made in Spain" notation |
| IZOD LACOSTE (US) | 1951〜1993 | ¥1,000〜5,000 | Low〜Mid | Crocodile faces right・IZOD notation |
| Peruvian, Chinese, Vietnamese-made | 2000s〜 | ¥2,000〜5,000 | Low | Current tags・Product number system |
Identification Tips
Assess value based on country of origin and tag
❶ Identify by crocodile direction
▼- ▸ Crocodile facing left (mouth pointing right) → Authentic Lacoste
- ▸ Crocodile facing right (mouth pointing left) → IZOD era US licensed product
- ▸ The precision of the crocodile embroidery also varies by era (older ones tend to be more three-dimensional and intricate).
❷ Identify country/era by tag notation
▼- ▸ "CHEMISE LACOSTE" → Widely seen on older tags, unified to LACOSTE notation in the early 2010s.
- ▸ "LACOSTE" only → Unified notation from 2012 onwards.
- ▸ "Sankyo Seiko Co., Ltd." notation → Confirms Japanese license period.
- ▸ "DEVANLAY" notation → French manufacturer (highly valued).
❸ Size notation
▼- ▸ Lacoste's unique sizing system (numeric notation).
- ▸ 2≈XS / 3≈S / 4≈M / 5≈L / 6≈XL / 7≈XXL.
- ▸ French-made items are slightly slimmer; Japanese-made (Sankyo Seiko) tend to be adapted to Japanese body types.
- ▸ Actual measurements recommended. Even with the same size notation, fit varies by era and country of origin.
❹ Fabric texture
▼- ▸ Thick, lustrous, soft → May be French-made, but for reference only.
- ▸ Slightly thin, matte texture → Current Peruvian-made, etc.
- ▸ Polyester blend → Sport series, current inexpensive items.
- ▸ 100% cotton piqué = sign of quality (but era confirmation is also necessary).
- ▸ ⚠️ Judging by fabric feel alone is risky. Always judge in conjunction with the tag.
⚠️ Sourcing Practical Notes
Overlooking the country of origin is the biggest cause of loss.
Overlooking French-made items
▼- ▸ If you treat all "Lacoste" items as the same price, you'll incur a significant loss.
- ▸ French-made polo shirts fetch 3-5 times the price of current products.
- ▸ French-made knits and cardigans are even higher priced.
- 👉 Always check the country of origin on the tag when sourcing. Treat French-made items separately.
Confusion with IZOD LACOSTE
▼- ▸ Even with a crocodile logo, "IZOD" is treated as a separate brand.
- ▸ Only items from the original French brand (referred to as "Frelaco") can be sold at a high price.
- ▸ You can reliably distinguish by the direction of the crocodile and the tag notation.
- 👉 Not all items with a crocodile are Lacoste. IZOD era items have low value.
Importance of Condition
▼- ▸ Polo shirts: significant price reduction for stretched collars, yellowing, or deteriorated crocodile logos.
- ▸ Knits: less than half value due to pilling or moth damage.
- ▸ Even French-made items will only sell for a low price if their condition is poor.
- 👉 For Lacoste, condition directly impacts price. Always check the collar, logo, and for pilling.
RE-USE TOKYO Services
Whether you want to purchase used Lacoste clothing or are considering sourcing,
please feel free to use our services.
info@re-usetokyo.com