Carhartt Used Clothing Purchasing Guide | RE-USE TOKYO
Carhartt Used Clothing Sourcing Guide
History of Carhartt
From its founding in 1889 to the king of workwear
Carhartt was founded in 1889 by Hamilton Carhartt in Detroit as an overalls manufacturer for railroad workers. For over 130 years, it has continued to produce American workwear, and its durability and rugged design were embraced by street and hip-hop culture after the 90s. In 1994, "Carhartt WIP (Work In Progress)" was established for the European market, cementing its status as a fashion brand.
Brand History
- 1889 Hamilton Carhartt founded the company in Detroit
- 1900s-50s Became a staple for railroad, agricultural, and construction workers
- 1970s-80s Established duck canvas and other durable material workwear
- 1990s Penetrated hip-hop and skate culture
- 1994 Carhartt WIP (Work In Progress) established (Europe)
- 2000s WIP expanded globally as a street fashion brand
- 2010s~ Clear bifurcation: Main Line = Workwear / WIP = Streetwear
Position in the Used Clothing Market
- Significant price difference between the Main Line (USA) and WIP (Europe)
- Main Line: Active Jacket and Detroit Jacket are most popular
- WIP: Popular with the street demographic. Higher retail prices, also high in used market
- Duck canvas (brown, black) has stable year-round demand
- Made in USA (older batches) is a popular factor, but model and condition are also important
- Fakes are relatively rare, but caution is needed for popular models (Detroit JK, Active JK) and on flea market apps
- Brown (duck), black, and navy are the most popular colors
Carhartt Main Line vs Carhartt WIP
Understand them as completely separate brands
Carhartt Main Line (USA / Mainline)
▼- ▸ The original American workwear line
- ▸ Made from durable materials like duck canvas (cotton canvas) and Cordura
- ▸ Generally oversized and boxy silhouette
- ▸ Active Jacket, Detroit Jacket, and Chore Coat are the three major staples
- ▸ Made in USA (up to early 2000s) has particular vintage value
- 👉 Main Line = Workwear. US oversized demand + vintage value
Carhartt WIP (Work In Progress)
Key Item Types
Items with high profit margins for sourcing
Active Jacket (J130, etc.)
▼- ▸ The most popular Carhartt used item
- ▸ Duck canvas + quilted lining + hooded
- ▸ Brown (duck) and black are in highest demand
- ▸ Made in USA (older batches) = higher price for vintage
- ▸ Well-worn items with "character" also have demand (patina is popular)
Detroit Jacket (J001, etc.)
▼- ▸ Blanket-lined work jacket with corduroy collar
- ▸ One of the two most popular models, along with the Active Jacket
- ▸ Older models (blanket lining, Made in USA) fetch particularly high prices
- ▸ Popular colors (MOS, PTL, etc.) and Made in USA vintage can be even more expensive
- ▸ WIP's Detroit Jacket is a different item with a slim fit, and even higher priced
Chore Coat (C001, etc.)
▼- ▸ Coverall-style work jacket. Perfect for spring and autumn layering
- ▸ Unlined (or blanket-lined)
- ▸ Brown duck canvas = year-round popular. Also available in denim
- ▸ WIP's Chore Coat is also popular in Japanese select shops
Overalls / Bibs
▼- ▸ Duck canvas overalls = Carhartt's origin
- ▸ Gaining renewed appreciation in street and mixed-vintage styling
- ▸ Double-knee specification is particularly popular
- ▸ Demand from both men and women if the size is right
T-shirts / Sweatshirts / Beanies
▼- ▸ Pocket T-shirt (K87) = Main line staple. High turnover rate.
- ▸ WIP sweatshirts/hoodies = high prices due to street demand
- ▸ Beanies = WIP is particularly popular. Highest turnover rate.
- ▸ Main line T-shirts are cheaper but have good turnover
Popular Item Comparison Chart
Market prices and features by model
| Item | Main Line Price Range | WIP Price Range | Popular Colors |
|---|---|---|---|
| Active Jacket | ¥5,000〜15,000 | ¥10,000〜30,000 | Brown, Black |
| Detroit Jacket | ¥5,000〜20,000 | ¥12,000〜40,000 | Brown, Black |
| Chore Coat | ¥3,000〜10,000 | ¥8,000〜25,000 | Brown, Denim |
| Overalls | ¥3,000〜10,000 | ¥8,000〜20,000 | Brown, Black |
| Sweatshirt / Hoodie | ¥2,000〜5,000 | ¥5,000〜15,000 | Black, Grey |
| Beanie | ¥1,000〜2,000 | ¥2,000〜5,000 | All colors |
⚠️ Sourcing Practical Precautions
Distinguishing Main Line/WIP and condition assessment are key
Mixing Up Main Line and WIP
▼- ▸ Selling WIP at the same price as Main Line = huge loss (WIP market price is 2-3 times higher)
- ▸ Conversely, sourcing Main Line at WIP prices = loss
- ▸ Always check for "WIP" on the tag before pricing
- 👉 When sourcing = first confirm if it's WIP or Main Line. This alone will impact profit.
Size Considerations
▼- ▸ Main Line uses US workwear sizing (2-3 sizes larger than Japanese sizes)
- ▸ US-M can be equivalent to Japanese XL
- ▸ However, there is high demand for oversized wear = larger sizes also sell
- ▸ WIP has standard EU sizing (closer to Japanese body types)
- 👉 Actual measurements are essential. Sell Main Line assuming oversized wear.
Damage Assessment Criteria
▼- ▸ Carhartt is a brand that develops "character" → minor dirt and fading are acceptable
- ▸ Some people value paint stains and oil stains as "worker vibe," but depending on the condition, they can be a markdown factor
- ▸ However, large tears, holes, or zipper malfunctions are markdown factors
- ▸ Check for torn lining and exposed quilting
- 👉 Carhartt's strength is its ability to sell "dirty" as "well-worn"
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